Mitsuwa Marketplace

Mitsuwa Marketplace is a sort of Disneyland for those who love Japanese food and culture (but especially food). The food court/grocery/shopping complex used to be known as Yaohan, but after changing names and undergoing renovation, it's even more of a food destination than before. Although Mitsuwa is not technically in New York, it's just a $2.00, 30-minute ride from Port Authority's Gate 51. The shuttle operates about every 30 minutes.

I caught the 1 p.m. shuttle today. After being treated to a brief tour of how the other half of the Hudson lives, I was deposited in front of Utsuwa, Mitsuwa's gift shop. Within, I found chopsticks, an assortment of tableware similar to that of Chinatown's Pearl River Mart, tons of Hello Kitty kitsch, and some other tchotchkes. (I bought a couple of those lucky cats.)

It is often said that one should not go grocery shopping on an empty stomach. So, after browsing through the Sanseido bookstore, I walked over to Matsushima, the free-standing waterfront Japanese restaurant. Unfortunately, this decision turned out to be a mistake. Although the menu was extensive and the display of lunch specialts appealing, the grilled fish in my bento was as dry as toast. Perhaps I just ordered badly; the other patrons seemed to relish their meals. At any rate, the waterfront view was pleasant.

Full, if not satisfied, I finally entered the mecca that is Mitsuwa. Now there's where I should've eaten. Since renovation, the food options have multiplied. Today, happy and hungry customers bustled to and fro, taking stock of all the stations. Many crowded around Katsuhana, a stand which sold fried pork and shrimp lunches. There was also a line of people waiting for bowls of steaming udon at Sanuki-Sando-Udon. Ramen sets were available at Santoko. I also noticed the Italian Tomato (pasta) and St. Honore (pastry) stands (these were identical to the ones at JAS Mart).

My map must have been out of date, because it listed Chinese and Korean take-out counters. Instead, there were two other businesses: Iseya, which sold bubble tea, "pizza buns," and small sweet cakes (obviously fresh ones, because an old lady was waiting near the cash register asking, "Are they ready yet?") and a counter devoted to fried croquettes, sweet potato tempura, fried Japanese mackerel, spring rolls and whole purple squids.

Manhattan's Minamoto Kitchoan was represented; I bought one of their chocolate sponge cakes and some green tea maple syrup puddings. I then walked past the woman handing out hot gyoza and noticed Oishinbo, which sold the beloved taiyaki, or sweet red bean-stuffed waffles shaped like carp. But since the cakes were served hot off the iron, I decided to pick up a couple when I was finished grocery shopping. Satisfied that I'd sufficiently cased the place, I started exploring the grocery aisles.

The home appliances were all cordoned off, with a sign explaining that Bergen County's blue laws prohibit the sale of home appliances on Sundays. I found this truly odd! Fortunately, none of the food was off-limits. The produce section featured an impressive variety of root vegetables such as purple yams (on sale), taro, Japanese sweet potatoes, and super-long gobo. There must have been a million types of miso! Moving onto the fish and meat sections, I saw that sliced ribeye for shabu shabu was on sale, as well as yellowtail sashimi. There were spices, there were rices... I excitedly grabbed a jar of yuzu kosho, a spicy citrus pepper which I'd first tried at Ony.

Even the beverage selection was overwhelming! Sake, shochu, soju, plum wine, iced chicory barley pu-erh tea... I bought a small bottle of junmai ginjo, some Boss coffee, and a precious vial of highest quality green tea leaves.

Next it was on to the frozen food aisle. Although I was trying to avoid buying perishable items, I picked up a few frozen eels (both barbequed and non-barbequed). My other purchases were a bottle of seaweed/rice cracker seasoning for rice soup, prepared spicy squid legs, and sesame-seasoned broccoli rape. Oh, and close to the cashier I saw that some sea urchin rice crackers were on sale. How could I miss out on something so exotic-sounding?

Mitsuwa Marketplace: 595 River Rd., Edgewater, NJ, (201) 941-9113.